Bresse farm museum--Domaine des Planons

Elisabeth suggested that we visit a museum dedicated to the Bresse farmers whose chicken is famous. She also wanted me to taste the traditional dish of Bresse chicken in a cream sauce. We invited Anne to join us for the day. 

That's Mont Blanc, not a cloud! Taken on our way to the restaurant..

Francoise had suggested a restaurant in Feillens that several others from Blanot had recently been to and highly recommended. Elisabeth phoned La Feillantine to make a reservation, but when she asked about the menu there was no creamed chicken on it. 

Elisabeth explained why she needed a place that made creamed chicken and was asked to wait a moment. The proprietor returned to the phone and told Elisabeth there was no problem, the chef would prepare the traditional chicken dish for the three of us! 

The meal began with a small, shot size glass of a cauliflower soup to open our taste buds. It succeeded! Then came the chicken in its cream sauce. Every bite was heaven. There was no way to rush because I wanted the flavor of each bite to last forever. Saucisson, fresh goat cheese, even ice cream—all delicious, but they can’t compare. I finished with a piece of bread to make sure I had gotten every drop of that cream sauce! We had fancy desserts which I’ve forgotten because it’s only the creamed Bresse chicken that my mouth remembers. 

After our meal at La Feillantine we headed for the farm museum. Of the pictures above, first is the entrance to the farmyard, then the farmhouse hung with bundles of corn, followed by the fireplace in the main room of the farmhouse. The fire was for both cooking and heat. Heat is why the bench for relaxing is in this space.

The farmyard was a rectangle with the farmhouse located on one of its long sides. This had actually been a working farm until the late 1980s. Anne and I commented that the house didn’t feel like a museum. Then we learned that the farm family had actually lived in the house until 1998.

Salt was a taxable commodity and kept in the salt chair. The museum explained that the tax collector wasn’t brave enough to try removing the elderly grandmother from the salt chair! 

To the right of the “fireplace” was a sleeping area where the ceiling was lower. I suppose that was one way to help this space stay warm.

The odd piece of furniture (also in the second picture above) is not a potty seat…my first guess, and I’m not sure I ever would have guessed its real purpose. This is the forerunner of today’s baby walker! The piece of wood with the big hole in the middle can move along the two rails. Put the baby in the hole and he or she can walk from one end to the other.

Notice also that the cradle is conveniently hung between the bed posts. Not only is it out of the way, but it would also be warmer there than on the floor. 

The opposite wall was taken up with storage cabinets…

…while in between was the dining room table. Notice that attached to the beam separating this space from the fire and sleeping area is a rack for dishes and cutlery (sorry I couldn't get it to show up better). The table also has drawers for additional storage.

In a small work room we found pottery for making cheese.

For this farmhouse there was another bedroom that was unusual because it had its own source of heat. We barely peeked into a third room because a group of deaf people were signing stories in there the afternoon of our visit.

We wandered off into the barns and found a horse drawn carriage that could be used as a truck…might have taken chickens to market in that back.

Then I was impressed by the cardboard cow and bull (thought they were real, didn't you!).

In another building we found a collection of chickens in 3 glass cases, 2 of which are here…

…and a collection of chicken crates along with information about the Bresse chicken which supposedly has blue legs.

Maybe if this chicken washed its feet, they might look blue.

We also watched a short film that showed how to build with the mud and straw mixture. There’s more to it than meets the eye!

Elisabeth took still pictures during the video and emailed them to me...

It makes a lot more sense to realize that a network of sticks between the posts is what keeps the mud and straw mixture in place.

Even as the day was fading it was amazingly warm. I was comfortable in a T shirt and really didn’t need the scarf.

Here I am not about to fall over, just laughing with Anne. I’d have deleted this picture, but it’s a good one of Anne and I don’t have another like it.

I had seen a hanging cow in the distance and was determined to get a closer look before we left the farm area. 

Anne and Elisabeth both laugh at this…and no, I’m not peeing in the bushes! I’m just getting my camera out and ready so I can shoot that bloomin' cow.

It was nearly closing time, but we managed a quick walk through the exhibit room. I had to laugh when I saw the hats with the black lace. They reminded me of my Vermont neighbor who wears netting over her head when she goes walking in order to avoid getting bitten by our black flies.

Before this visit I would not have connected wooden shoes with France. I also thought it was quite clever to display the shoes under the floor.

I admired how much skill and time would be needed to create these beautiful caps….

Bresse is also known for its enamelwork. My photo distorted the fish on this plate because of the curve; the fish was really rather comical. On the other hand, the mobile fish was quite impressive. 

It was dark as we headed for home. We left the Bresse region to find the lights of Macon reflected on the Saone River.

Well, I only wanted to use one of these night pictures, but the computer program has a mind of its own. Every time I try to remove just the one photo, everything in this post disappears except for the first paragraph! You'll just have to put up with both night pictures....